mistwalker

Ocean at Dawn　　2009.3.12

5:30 in the morning.
Wanting to take a picture of early morning waves, I head out to sea.
Darkness.
I put the board on the beach and sat in the sand. A forceful wave breaks unto shore, wetting my feet. The water isn't that cold. While thinking, "Is it spring already?" light slowly appears in the sky.
It was still quite dark, but I mustered the courage and got on my board. I paddle into the dark ocean where there is no one around. Silence and the feeling of loneliness are quite pleasant. If I drown and die here, no one will know; a strange thought I think about as I move on to the next point.
The waves weren't that big. Small swells keep rolling in. While sitting on the board, I look back at the shore where I had come from. A street light is still sparkling in orange. I took out a waterproof camera and snapped a photo right away. The town where people still sleep. It's a place I can hear the breath of living things.
Suddenly, I sensed something and looked around. It was something very close. About 3 meter in front me...a sea turtle that was lived around this point from long ago. Her eyes look like my dogs; very charming. "Long time no see," I greeted. I thought she glanced at me for a second.
After a while, a huge swell rolled in. Since it was dark, I didn't know it was even there until it was very close to me. I rushed to put the camera away in my back side rash guard and changed my direction. I have to paddle really hard to ride this wave. I paddle at full strength, feeling strongly that, "I want to ride in the twilight."
Accelerate...I can get on it...
I bend backwards...
Stand on wave.
The sea at the day break.
An obsidian tide unlike before.
Cold winds.
Gliding comfortably.