Waves come to South 2009.10.18
Honolulu/Waikiki beach/Point Pops.
There were hardly no waves until yesterday, but suddenly today there are. It was windy, so it looked like a splash of water flying off from upper part of the wave, but when I approached closer, the surface of the water was surprisingly flat. This means, it is the condition that I can ride comfortably. I forgot about my muscle aches lasting for few days and rode the waves continuously for 2 hours.
The locals there were taking this opportunity and riding the waves twice a day, morning and afternoon. Yeah... They are pretty tough... I saw Yas from KAION, I hadn't seen him for a long time. Everybody there seemed really Happy with pleasant smiles. Not smiling to anyone but to the waves. Yeah... I really Love this feeling.
When I was waiting for a wave toward the outside, a good wave came right to me. It was a long ride. Pressing the edge of my board to the incline of the wave. The acceleration feels good. The environment is filled with natural power. This sense of togetherness is indescribable.
I feel this every time but, some sort of energy is infused into me when I am back on land.
This is the area where the fresh water flows into the sea and Hawaiians would come visit to heal themselves a long time ago. The Pops which is ahead is probably a power spot.